Fortnum & Mason: Sharing Tea in a Christmas Wonderland

Cake substitutes in the savory afternoon tea are goose foie gras with pistachio and rhubarb, mushroom and Madeira pâté, smoked salmon macaron, cashew nut cheesecake, and Portland crab salad, plus any choice of tortes from the cake carriage. Pâtisseries in the sweet option were deliciously fresh and colorful. The list included passion fruit and lemon mousse, rose-filled choux buns, peach mint Swiss roll, strawberry Chantilly tartlets topped with frothy candy floss, and hazelnut gianduja cake—all of them deserving high praise and appealing to all palates. Christmas season in the salon heralds the advent of mince pies and fruitcake, while on the fifth floor, children can listen to Yuletide readings by Father Christmas.

Fortnum’s spice tea strikes all the perfect Christmas notes with its steamy exotic aroma wafting up from the cup. Not up for spicy beverages? Then ask for a session with the resident “tearista,” who will brew a variety of teas to taste, and then decide.

Tea-themed ornaments are for sale in the store.

No one leaves empty-handed, as any leftovers, including the curd and strawberry preserves or cake from the carriage, are boxed and bowed for departure.

Tea over, I do the rounds, gathering up the goods on my rather long shopping list. Silver top hat tea strainers, as well as the annual Christmas-themed shopping tote, catch my eye.

After a lovely afternoon, it’s twilight, time to leave this fascinating store behind. We step out on the footpath and meld into the early evening hustle and bustle of joyous crowds. I take one last quick look back at the gorgeous picture windows glowing behind me. They send a timeless message of peace and goodwill perfectly interlaced with the enduring spirit of Christmas.


Fortnum & Mason is located at 181 Piccadilly Mayfair, London W1A 1ER, and is served by the Central or Piccadilly Lines of the Underground subway system. Tea sittings typically last 90 minutes and are available by reservation Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., and Sunday, noon to 5:45 p.m. To book, go to fortnumandmason.com/restaurants/afternoon-tea, or ring +011 44 20 7734 8040.


Award-winning cake designer Kerry Vincent is a television host and a global traveler who seeks out interesting places for tea wherever she goes.

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